Introduction

Chemicals that can cause serious health problems are called “toxic.” We don’t often think of cosmetics, such as makeup and shampoo, as sources of exposure to toxic chemicals that may increase the risk of breast cancer and other health problems. Studies show that some cosmetic ingredients may be toxic. This resource provides information about the Canadian cosmetic regulations and how you can use them to protect yourself. It also contains practical tools to help you make informed choices about the cosmetics you buy.

How is Canada regulating cosmetics?

The sale of cosmetics is regulated under the Food and Drug Act and the Cosmetic Regulations under the Minister of Health. However, ingredients in cosmetics are mostly regulated by the cosmetic industry and not the government. Changes to the Cosmetic Regulations require that all cosmetics have an ingredients list on the label after November 16th, 2006, using the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredient names, or INCI names. Health Canada also has a list of over 500 prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients called the Cosmetic Ingredient “Hotlist.”

The Hotlist can be found on Health Canada’s website here.

If a cosmetic contains a Hotlist ingredient, Health Canada may advise the makers to:

  • Remove the ingredient;

  • Reduce the concentration of the ingredient;

  • Consider marketing the product as a drug;

  • Provide evidence that the product is safe for its intended use;

  • Confirm that the product is labeled properly;

  • Confirm that the product is sold in a child-resistant package.

Some strengths of the regulations:

  • When cosmetic labels list ingredients, people can refer to the Hotlist to find out if their cosmetics contain restricted or prohibited ingredients;

  • An ingredient is usually added to the Hotlist if it poses a health risk.

Some weaknesses of the regulations are that:

  • Ingredients in cosmetics are not reviewed for safety before they are put on the shelves. Companies are only required to send an ingredients list to Health Canada ten days after the product goes on the market;

  • Warning labels are not required for cosmetics that contain chemicals associated with cancer;

  • Possible long-term health effects of cosmetic ingredients, such as cancer, are not included in the Hotlist;

  • It does not acknowledge that some combinations of chemicals may be more toxic than each one separately; does not take into account the synergistic and cumulative effects of chemicals.

Cosmetic ingredients of concern: some are on the Hotlist and some are not.

Attention: The Hotlist changes. For updates, consult the Hotlist on Health Canada’s website.

The chemicals listed below are classified as one or more of the following: established human carcinogen, possible human carcinogen, may increase the risk for cancer, skin cancer risk, may be a human reproductive or developmental toxin and/or an endocrine (hormonal) system disruptor.

Ingredient of Top Concern

Usually Found in

On the Hotlist?

BHA (butyl hydroxy anisole)

many cosmetics

No

Coal Tar Dyes

hair dyes

Yes, with exceptions

Formaldehyde

nail treatments

Yes

Petroleum Distillates

mascara, perfume, foundation, lipstick

No

Parabens (ex. methylparaben or propylparaben)

many cosmetics

No

Phthalates (ex. dibutyl phthalate, DBP, dibutyl ester,

nail polish and treatments, fragrances, perfumes

No

Di(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate, DEHP)

Yes

Synthetic Musks

fragrances, cosmetics

No, with exceptions of musk ambrette and musk tibetene.

Selenium Sulfide

dandruff shampoo

No

Toluene

nail polish, nail treatments

Yes

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

facial cleanser, skin cream, moisturizer, bar soap

Yes, with exceptions

Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl (PFAS)

lotions, cleansers, nail polish, shaving cream, foundation, lipstick, eyeliner, eyeshadow, and mascara

No

m-and-o Phenylenediamine

hair dyes

No

Ethanolamine Compounds: DEA, TEA and MEA

soaps, shampoos, hair conditioners and dyes, lotions, shaving creams, eyeliners, mascara, eye shadows, blush, make-up bases, foundations, fragrances, sunscreens

No

Chemicals of concern for racialized people

On  the Hotlist

Not on the Hotlist

Benzene

Coconut Diethanolamide and Palm Kernel Diethanolamide (CDE and PKD)

Formaldehyde

Coumarin

Hydroquinone

Dibutyl phthalate

P-phenylenediamine

DMDM hydantoin

Placental extract

Octoxynol-40

Mercury

10 Sorbitan laurate (PEG)

Mercury salts

Monoethyl phthalate (MEP)

Phthalates (see table above)

Parabens (see table above)

Monoethanolamine (MEA)

Racialized women are at a greater risk to be disproportionately exposed to toxic chemicals in the workplace, their communities and from cosmetics. Products like skin lighteners, hair relaxers, and acrylic nails are often marketed to racialized women, and they contain some of the most worrisome ingredients in cosmetics.

Resources

Campaign for Safe Cosmetics

Breast Cancer Prevention Partners

Journal of Exposure Science & Environmental Epidemiology

Chemicals can build up in your body

One-time use of a product containing toxic chemicals should not pose a health risk. The problem comes from long-term low-dose exposure to toxic chemicals such as using a product or a combination of products daily, year after year.  Some toxic chemicals can build up in our bodies over time. "Body Burden" is a term used to denote the total of all cumulative environmental exposures and involves all routes of entry (inhalation, ingestion and skin absorption) and all sources (food, air water workplace, home, etc.).

What’s in a name? Not always what you think.

Be skeptical of words like “organic,” “natural,” and “herbal.”  Products labeled this way may still contain harmful chemicals.  Read the list of ingredients and find out what’s in the products you are using.

App for safer cosmetics

Think Dirty® app allows to learn ingredients in your beauty, personal care and household products. Just scan the product barcode and Think Dirty will give you easy-to-understand info on the product, its ingredients, and shop cleaner options!

Take action!

Inform yourself about the products you use:

Try to limit your use of cosmetics, in particular:

  • Dark hair dyes;
  • Nail treatments, polishes and removers;
  • Products containing synthetic fragrances, and
  • Perfumes

Inform others by talking about toxic ingredients in cosmetics to:

  • Your family, friends, colleagues and community;
  • Your local store owner or manager, and;
  • The companies you buy from.  Call the companies to voice your concerns about toxic ingredients in their products.

Write to the government and encourage:

  • A “Safelist” – cosmetic ingredients we can be sure are safe to use;
  • Warning labels on all cosmetics that contain chemicals associated with cancer;
  • Health Canada to review the safety of cosmetic ingredients before they are sold;
  • Strengthening cosmetic ingredient regulations to ensure that toxic chemicals are eliminated or tightly restricted.

Write or call your Member of Parliament with your concerns.

Find your Member of Parliament online using your postal code